Made in Japan

バリバリ (baribari): (Japanese onomatopoeia) crunchy, crispy, the sound of tearing, gung-ho. The three of us were sitting at a Vietnamese restaurant in Nagano. Having eaten Vietnamese all of once before moving to Japan, I poked at a noodle dish with my chopsticks. “I think there’s coconut milk in this sauce,” I said. “Coconut milk’s not…