It’s rhubarb season again! I got some rhubarb and the first raspberries of the season at Pike Place Market and made this crostata again. Served with raspberry wine from Bainbridge Vineyards.
See the recipe here.
Five food things:
Fava beans, or broad beans, are in season again. I used to make this dish in Kanazawa when the fava beans (soramame, 空豆) came to market.
Buying enough fresh fava beans in the pod to make a dish can be a challenge if you don’t have a baseline for measurements–and that’s assuming that all the beans are fully formed! A pound of pods ought to yield about 1 US cup, 10 oz., 280 g. The original recipe calls for canned beans, if that’s easier to measure. I also tend to serve this with one egg person for protein.
Oh, and I suppose you could serve this with a nice Chianti, but only if you pronounce it correctly.
Trying a new, hopefully weekly format:
At some point over the last summer I started collecting anatomical heart designs after I found a necklace shaped like one in the Pacific Science Center. A heart, after all, is not heart-shaped. In design, an anatomical heart is a scientific representation of an emotional metaphor. Blame Sherlock or Frankenstein MD or Hannibal for encouraging this aesthetic, but I am enjoying decorating my new place with vintage culinary and medical drawings.
It took me a year to get this one down pat, but this vegetarian tart has been a hit at dinner parties. Rosemary-roasted beets, butternut squash, parsnips, and carrots are tossed with roasted garlic and goat cheese, then baked in a savory pie crust. The crust and vegetables can be prepared ahead of time, which is especially useful with the awful commuter traffic in Seattle…
Make the dough first, and then prepare and cook the vegetables during the rest time.
Lately I’ve been thinking about recreating the regional food from the part of the Midwest where I grew up–goetta, Cincinnati chili, Jello salad–and, of course, the desserts from my extended family and community. In my opinion, which you all seem to trust, my mom makes the best apple crisp in the whole state of Ohio. (And the best spritz!*) In our home, we favor the oatmeal crumble part of the apple crisp, and she and I occasionally doubled that part of the recipe because our family tends to wander into the kitchen to steal some of the topping before, during, and after serving, trying not to making the nibbling too obvious.
I had some leftover frozen cranberries from the farmers’ market from autumn, so I decided to make a cranberry-apple crisp with Bon Appetit‘s fruit compote and my slightly adapted version of my mom’s oatmeal crumble. Washington apples and cranberries make a nice bridge from my Ohio roots to my relatively new life in the Pacific Northwest. The cinnamon is my personal addition to the dish.
What I like about using fresh/frozen cranberries is that the tartness works so well with the sweetness of the oatmeal layer. There’s a little extra work since you have to cook the cranberries and apples together first (vs. using raw apples), but the gooey filling really complements the tender texture of the oatmeal topping. This is a great dish for a chilly autumn night–or spring, if you freeze those cranberries!
We’ve made it to the sushi chapter, readers!
This “cake” occupies a nebulous area somewhere between dessert and cornbread. Almond meal, whole-wheat pastry flour, and cornmeal add a toothsome bite to the soft, sweet pears. I brought this to a potluck as dessert, but I liked it even better when I served it for brunch alongside a frittata and baked oatmeal.